Method of sewing pockets



Mam}! 1958 R. s. PHlLLiPS, JR 2,825,907

METHOD OF SEWING POCKETS Original Filed Dec. 50, 1953 e Sheets-Sheet 1By B'ERTSPHILLIPS) HTTOQIUEV March 1958 R. s. PHILLIPS, JR 2,82 07METHOD OF SEWING POCKETS Original Filed Dec. 30, 1953 Y 6 Sheets-Sheet 2ATTOF/l/EV March 11, 1958 R. s. PHlLLlPs JR v2,825,907

METHOD OF SEWING POCKETS' Original Filed Dec. 30. 1953 6 Sheets-Sheet 3INVENTOR.

R B T s PHILLWS March 1958 R. s. PHILLIPS, JR 2,825,

METHOD OF SEWING POCKETS Original Filed Dec. 50, 1955 s Sheets-Sheet 4 HK Q INVENTOR.

ROBERT s, PHILLIPS nTmRn/EV March 1%, 1958 R. s. PHILLIPS, JR 2,825,997

METHOD OF SEWING FOCKETS Original Filed Dec. :50, 1955 e Sheets-Sheet 5INVENTOR. ROBERT s.PHl

ATTORNEY March 11, 1958 R. s. PHILLIPS, JR

7 METHOD OF SEWING POCKETS Original Filed Dec. 30, 1955 6 Sheets-Sheet 61| 4 III"! I.

IN V EN TOR.

ice

METHOD F SEWING POCKETS Robert S. Phillips, .ln, Phoenixville, Pa,assignor, by

mesne assignments, to The Reece Corporation, Waltham, Mass a corporationof Massachusetts Original application December 30, 1953, Serial No.401,181. Divided and this application October 26, 1954, Serial No.464,773

2 Claims. (Ci. 2-247) This invention relates generally to the productionof welt pockets in garments and more particularly to an improved methodof producing the same, this application being a division of myco-pending application, Serial No. 401,181, filed December 30, 1953.

Among the principal objects of the present invention is to provide asimple and effective method of accurately disposing the severalpocket-forming parts in their proper superimposed relation preliminarilyto sewing them together and for insuring that the welt and other partswhich make up the pocket are secured to the main body fabric of thegarment by lines of stitching which are truly parallel, are properlyspaced apart and are of the requisite length to produce a welt pocketfree of all such irregularities as are incidental to the conventionalmanufacture of welt pockets.

Still another object is to provide a method of producing welt pocketsand the like which is especially adapted for high production manufacturethereof and which facilitates inserting and securing in accurateposition the fabric strip which is normally employed to form the weltalong the edge which defines the opening into the pocket.

A further object is to facilitate and render more economical themanufacture of welt pockets, to render unnecessary the employment ofhighly skilled labor in the production of such pockets, and to improveand render more uniform the construction and appearance of welt pockets.

Other objects of the invention will appear more fully hereinafter, itbeing understood that the present invention consists substantially inthe combination, construction, location and relative arrangement of theparts of the welt-forming apparatus, as well as in the method of layingin and forming the welt as an integral part of the pocket, all as willbe described more fully hereinafter, as shown in the accompanyingdrawings and as finally pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings which show certain preferred embodiments ofthe present invention and are illustrative of the principles thereof:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a table adapted to receive theapparatus which is utilized to form the pocket welt in accordance withthe present invention;

Figure 2 is a top plan view of said table;

Figure 3 is a perspective view of the device in the nature of acombination clamp and guide for holding the welt and pocket formingmaterials in position preliminarily to their being sewed together toform the finished welt pocket;

Figure 4 is a top plan view of the device shown in Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a longitudinal sectional view taken along the line 55 ofFigure 4;

Figure 6 is a transverse sectional view taken along the line 66 ofFigure 4;

Figure 7 is a side elevational view of the combination clamp and guide,showing the same opened;

Figure 8 is a perspective view of the combination clamp and guide, alsoshowing the same in its opened condition;

Figures 9 and 10 are similar plan views each showing the combinationclamp and guide mounted upon the work table, but respectively showingits condition relative to the pocket-forming materials during differentstages of its use in connection with the formation of a welt pocket;

Figure 11 is a sectional view of the table as taken along the line 11-11of Figure 2;

Figure 12 is a transverse sectional view as taken along the line 1212 ofFigure 9 but without the welt strip in place;

Figure 13 is a transverse sectional view also taken along the line 12-12of Figure 9 but showing the welt strip in place;

Figure 14 is a transverse sectional view as taken along the line 14-M ofFigure 10;

Figures 15 and 16 are sectional views, taken respec tively on line 3i15of Figure 21 and line 16-16 of Figure 22, of the pocket-portion of thegarment illustrating respectively, the welt pocket in the process ofbeing formed and the welt pocket completed;

Figure 17 is a perspective view showing a sewing machine in associationwith the combination clamp and guide for holding the pocket-formingmaterial in proper relation to be sewed together;

Figure 18 is a fragmentary plan view showing that portion of the bed ofthe sewing machine which immediately underlies the stitching needle andalso the lower slotted plate of the combination clamp and guide;

Figure 19 is a sectional view taken along the line ll9-19 of Figure 18showing the stop means effective for limiting movement of thecombination clamp and guide forwardly with respect to the axis ofreciprocation of the sewing machine needle;

Figure 20 is a view similar to Figure 19 but showing the stop meanseffective for limiting movement of the combination clamp and guiderearwardly with respect to the sewing machine needle;

Figure 21 is a plan view of the pocket-forming fabrics secured togetheras shown in Figure 15;

Figure 22 is a view showing the inner face of the completed welt pocket;

Figure 23 is a fragmentary view showing the outer face of the weltpocket, particularly the welt portion thereof, as viewed from the line2.3--23 of Figure 16;

Figure 24 is a perspective view similar to Figure 8 showing a modifiedconstruction of the combination clamp and guide unit;

Figure 25 is a perspective View showing in separated relation the baseplate of the modified unit and the means associated therewith forlocating the die-cut fabric in its proper relation to the needle guideslots;

Figure 26 is a bottom plan view of the base plate of the modified unit;

Figure 27 is a longitudinal sectional view as taken along the line 2727of Figure 26; and

Figure 28 is a fragmentary top plan view of the base plate, showing thefabric-locating means associated therewith secured in an adjustedposition different from that illustrated in Figures 24 to 27.

In the conventional production of inset pockets having welts, thecustomary procedure is to die-cut the garment fabric A in which thepocket is to be formed to provide the slit for the pocket opening. Suchslit is of the form best shown in Figures 3, 9, 18 and 21 and consistsof a horizontally extending slitted portion B terminating at oppositeends in divergent portions CC to provide,

aseaeo'r in the garment fabric A a pair of trapezoidal-shaped fiaps D-Dand a pair of triangular-shaped flaps E-E, all of which may be foldedback against the inner surface of the fabric A to form a rectangularopening of approximately the shape and size defined by the dotted linesF-F and G-G of Figure 22. it is this rectangular opening which issubsequently fitted with the welt H (see Figure 23) which finishes offthe pocket, the welt H being secured to the garment fabric A only alongthe Vertical lines 1-1 and the horizontal line J, thereby leaving theupper edge K free of the garment fabric to provide an entrance openinginto the pocket.

The pocket per se is formed of overlapping pocket liners L and M, whichrespectively depend from the garment fabric A and from the welt l-l,these pocket liners being marginally secured together as along thedotted lines N-N-O to complete the inset pocket. This pocketconstruction is diagrammatically shown in Figures 15 and l6 wherein itwill be observed that the pocket liner L which depends from the garmentfabric A overlies the inner face of the pocket liner M which is securedto and depends from the welt H. The opposite ends of the Welt H, whichrespectively overlie the inturned flaps E-E, are secured, to the pocketliners L and M by the lines of stitching 1-1 which respectively extendalong the fold lines of the inturned flaps E-E. These lines of stitchingI-l may be and usually are coincident with the pocket-closing lines ofstitching N-N. it will be noted further that the pocket liner M issecured to the welt H by the same line of stitching I which secures thelower edge of the welt to the garment fabric A, this stitching 1 beingcoincident with the fold line of the lower flap D of the die-cut fabricA and that the pocket liner L is secured to the garment fabric A by ahorizontal line of stitching P coincident with the fold line of theupper flap D of the die-cut fabric A.

It will be understood that the die-cutting of the fabric A, thepreparation of the welt H and the pocket liners L and M, and theirrelative assembly as above described to form the completed Welt pocketis in accordance with conventional procedure and that the presentinvention resides not only in the means hereinafter described forfacilitating accurate and expeditious placement of the welt and pocketliners upon and securement thereof to the die-cut garment fabric A butalso in the method of handling the several pocket-forming parts in themaking up of the completed pocket.

Referring now to the drawings and more particularly to Figures 4 to 7thereof, it will be observed that the present invention provides acombination clamp and guide device, designated generally by thereference numeral 1.0, which includes a rectangular base plate 11. towhich is hinged, as at 12, a top plate 13 which is adapted to be swungfrom its open position shown in Figures 7 and 8 into a closed position(Figure in which latter condition the device 10 serves not only as aclamp to hold the several pocket-forming parts, including the welt H, inproper assembled relation during the operation of stitching themtogether, but also as a guide for accurately feeding the assembled partsthrough the stitching head of a sewing machine along pre-determinedlyfixed parallel stitching lines.

Hingedly secured to the base plate 11, as at 14, is a strap of flatspring metal, which strap, of relatively narrow width, is disposedadjacent one longitudinal edge of the base plate 11 as most clearlyappears in Figure 8. The strap 15 is reversely bent as shown to providea depressed central portion in which is adapted to resiliently pressilat wise against the base plate when the strap is swung into itsoperative fabric-holding position shown in Figures 7 and 8. To securethe holding strap in its operative position, the base plate 11 isprovided with a vertically projecting latch pin 17 which frictionallyengages the edge of a suitable aperture 18 formed in the free end of thestrap 15, whereby the latter is quick-re" leasably retained in itsoperative position.

The hinged top plate 13 of the device 10 is centrally provided with arectangular opening 19, across the length of which are disposed a pairof relatively closely spaced, parallel guide members 29-21 for thereciprocating needle of a sewing machine. These members 20-21 are eachresiliently supported upon the under side of the top plate 13 by themeans and in the manner best shown in Figures 6 and 7, wherein it willbe observed that the opposite ends of each of the members 20-21 areprovided with a headed bolt 22 the shank of which projects looselythrough a suitable aperture 23 in the plate 13 and is fitted with acoiled compression spring 24 disposed between the plate 13 and the guidemember. It will be apparent that the compression springs 24 operate toresiliently press the guide members 2ll-21 away from their supportingplate 13, in consequence of which said guide members are spring-pressedinto engagement with and thus securely hold in position thepocket-forming parts clamped between the base plate 11 and the top plate13 of the device ill. To facilitate detachable assembly of thespring-pressed guide members 20-21 with the top plate 13, the oppositeends of each guide member have welded thereto boss elements 25 which aresuitably tapped to receive the threaded ends of the bolts 22.

The base plate 11 is provided with a pair of elongated narrow slots26-27, which slots are disposed in parallel relation and are of suchlengths and so spaced as to register with the rectangular opening 19 ofthe top plate when the latter is swung into its closed, clampingposition; Preferably, the slots 26-27 which are of equal length, areslightly shorter than the length of the opening i9 and are symmetricallyspaced to either side of the longitudinal center line of said opening19.

The spring-pressed guide members 20-21 are respectively provided withelongated narrow slots 28-29 in registry with the base plate slots26-27. At this point it will be noted that the base plate slots 26-27and their registering top plate slots 28-29 are each of a lengthslightly greater than the length of the parallel stitch lines I and P ofFigures 15, 16 and 21. Also, it is important to observe that theregistering pair of slots 26-28 are so laterally spaced from theflexible strap 15 and from the registering pair of slots 27-29 that whenthe welt H is initially disposed with its finished outer edge coincidentwith the inner edge of the strap 15, the unfinished inner edge of thewelt H is disposed between the paired slots 26-25 and the paired slots27-29. To this end, the distance between the inner edge of the strap 15and the longitudinal center line of the paired slots 26-28 equals thatbetween the longitudinal center lines of the laterally spaced pairedslots 26-28 and 27-29.

Any suitable means may be employed to quick-re leasably lock the topplate 13 in clamped relation to the base plate 11. For this purpose thebase plate may be provided with a vertically projecting short post 39which is adapted to project through an aperture 35. suitably provided inthe hinged top plate 13, the projecting portion of the post beinggrooved, as at 32, to receive a spring wire retainer 3-3 which issuitably fixed to the upper surface of the top plate 13 to extendchordally across the aperture 31. Thus when the top plate is swung intoits closed clamping position shown in Figures 4 and 5, the spring wireretainer 33 snaps into the groove 2 of the post and quick-releasablylocks the top plate 13 to the base plate 11. in order to limit downwarmovement of the top plate relatively to the base plate and so maintainthem substantially parallel when the work to be operated on is clampedtherebetween, the base plate ll. may be provided with an upstanding stop34 upon whch the free end of the hinged top plate 13 is adapted to rest.

The combination clamp and guide device it is designed, of course, tohold the several pocket-forming parts in proper assembled relationduring the operations of sewing them together along the stitching linesI and P hereinbefore mentioned (see Figures 15, 16 and 23), whichoperations are performed, as shown in Figure 17, by feeding the clampedwork through the needle head of a sewing machine 35.

This sewing machine, which may be of any conventional form, is modifiedby removing therefrom the presser foot and the feed dogs which arenormally present in the machine and by replacing the normal needle platewith a special needle plate such as that designated 36 in Figures 17 to20. As clearly appears in these figures, the needle plate 36 is securedto the sewing machine bed 37 by screws 37 -3'i' so that the top surfaceof the needle plate is flush with that of the bed 37 over which theclamped work is manually shifted. The needle plate is provided with anelongated slot 38 in the center of which is suitably fixed a tubularneedle guide 39 through which the threaded eye of the needle 40 mayreciprocate for stitching of the pocket parts together. It will beunderstood, of course, that the stitch-forming mechanism (not shown)disposed beneath the needle plate 36 and which coact with the needle toperform the desired stitching are conventional and in themselvesconstitute no part of the present invention Secured to the needle plate36, as by the bolts 41 and their wing nuts 42, are a pair of stops 43-43which are individually adjustable lengthwise of the needle plate slot 38to limit the movement of the clamped work (i. e. the loaded devicerelatively to the needle 40 to thereby limit the length of the lines ofstitching J and P. It will be noted that the stops 43-43 are each in theform of a member 44 (slotted as at 44*) adapted to be secured flatwiseagainst the bottom surface of the needle plate 36 and having an upturnedextremity 45 which projects into the needle plate slot 38. The upperedge of the extremity 45 of .each stop 43 projects above the top surfaceof the needle plate, as does the upper edge of the needle guide 39.

As most clearly appears in Figures 18 to 20, the needle guide 39 and theupwardly projecting extremities 45-45 of the stops 43-43 are adapted tofit into one or the other of the guide slots 26-27 in the base plate 11of the clamp and guide device 10 when the latter is positioned fiatwiseover the bed 37 (and needle plate 36) of the sewing machine. Upon sopositioning the device 10 relatively to the needle guide 39 and thestops 43-43, it will be apparent that as the device 10 is horizontallyshifted relatively to the reciprocating axis of the needle 40,.the guide39 and the stop extremities 45-45 ride in the selected base plate slot26 (or 27) and insure that the line of stitching produced by the machineis truly rectilinear and exactly in coincidence with the predeterminedline of stitching J (or P). During this stitching operation, the needle40 reciprocates vertically through the vertically coincident slots 26-28(for the line of stitching I) or through the vertically coincident slots27-29 (for the line of stitching P).

By positional adjustment of the stops 43-43 relatively to the needleguide 39, the extent of travel of the device 19 may be accuratelycontrolled as desired to thereby obtain a predetermined length ofstitching line. By removing the stops 43-43 completely, the full lengthof slot 26 (or 27) may be employed to obtain a line of stitching ofmaximum length. When, however, the stops 43-43 are employed, they eachmay be positionally adjusted more or less away from the tubular needleguide 39 to change the starting and stopping points along the line ofstitching I (or P) and so change as desired the efiective length of thestitching line. The extent of adjustment of the stops 43-43 isdetermined, of course, by the length of their slots 44. In certaininstances it may be desirable to eliminate the use of the stops 43-43,in which case the needle plate 36 would be provided simply with a needleguide 39 which would serve to engage opposite ends of the base plateslot 26 (or 27) as the device 10 is shifted from one to the other of itsextreme positions relatively to the reciprocating axis of the sewingmachine needle 40.

To facilitate disposition of the loaded device 10 into stitchingposition below the needle head of the sewing machine, the top plate 13is marginally indented, as at 46-46, to reduce the overall thickness ofthe device along the region traversed by the sewing machine needle andso permit it to be laterally shifted into position beneath the needlewhen the latter is raised into its uppermost position. If desired, oneof the indented edges of the top plate 13 may be fitted with areinforcing bar 47, in which case the non-reinforced edge of the plate13 would be that which is inserted laterally across the reciprocatingaxis of the needle for registry of one or the other of the slots 26-27with the needle guide 39 and the stop elements -45.

In order to accurately dispose the garment fabric A with its die-cutslit B in proper relation to the needle slots in the combined clamp andguide device 10, loading of the latter with the pocket-forming parts iseffected upon a Work-assembling table 50 as shown in Figures 1, 2 and 9to 14, inclusive. This table is provided with a rectangular opening 51in the top thereof which is generally complemented in size and shapewith the opening 19 in the top plate 13 of the device 10. Fitted in thetable top opening 51 is a movable insert 52 fitted with a plurality ofupwardly presenting sharply pointed pins 53, one for each terminal endof the divergent portions C of the die-cut slit B of the main bodyfabric A of the pocket to be formed. It will be noted that the insertmounts four pins and that the latter are relatively disposed inrespective coincidence with the four corners of the rectangular openingin the fabric A which is to be fitted with the welt H and which openingis defined by the dotted lines F-F and G-G of Figure 22.

The insert 52 is itself mounted upon the free end of a relatively longbeam 54, hinged as at 55, to the under side of the table top. The beam54 extends between a pair of brackets 56 which depend from the table topand which support therebetween a pivot shaft 57 spaced well below theunder side of the table top. Pivoted upon this shaft 57 is a lever 58,one arm 59 of which is adapted to be swung into engagement With the beamto force it upwardly into its horizontal position shown in Figures 12and 13, in which raised position the pins 53 project freely above thetop of the table 50. Upon reverse operation of the lever 58 to free thearm from supporting engagement with the beam, the latter is free to dropinto its lowered position shown in Figures 11 and 14, in which latterdisposition of the insert 52 the pointed ends of the pins 53 are belowthe top surface of the table 50.

To effect accurate placement of the device 10 upon the table top andinsure proper registry of the pins 53 with the slots 26-27 in the baseplate 11 of the device 10, the table top is fitted with a fence 60having rightangularly related portions 61-62 against which arerespectively positioned the corresponding edge portions of the device10, as is best shown in Figures 9 and 10. When the device 10 ispositioned against the fence 60 as shown in Figures 9 and 10, theopposite ends of the slots 26-27 in the base plate 11 of the device willbe disposed in position to respectively accommodate the upwardlyprojecting pins 53 of the table top insert 52 when the latter is swungupwardly into its operative position shown in Figures 12 and 13. In thisoperative position the pointed ends of the pins 53 are respectivelydisposed for projection through the terminals of the divergent portionsC-C of the die-cut slit B in the main body fabric A.

In the use of the apparatus of the present invention, the first step isto place the device 10 in its opened condition shown in Figures 3 and 8upon the table 50 and against the fence sa so that the extremities ofthe slots 26-27 of the base plate 11 are respectively in registry withthe pins 53 of the table top insert 52, the latter of course, beinglocked in its elevated position by means of the locking lever 53operating on the beam 54 as shown in Figure 12. The flexible strap isswung upwardly out of its position shown in Figures 7 and 8, followingwhich the main body fabric A, which has been preliminarily die-cut toform the slit B, is placed over the base plate 11 with its outer surfacefacing up. The fabric A is disposed so that the terminals of thedivergent portions C-C of the die-cut slit are respectively in exactregistry with the pins 53 which project upwardly through the fabric (seeFigures 3 and 12). Thereupon the strap 15 is swung into its positionshown in Figure 3 to clamp the fabric A in fixed position upon the baseplate 11, whereupon the pins 53 are retracted from the fabric byreleasing the lever 58 to permit lowering of the beam 54 and the tableinsert 52 carried thereby.

Next, the welt H is laid upon the fabric A with the finished edge of thewelt in contact with the inner edge of the strap 15. This welt H may beof any desired form and material and is usually prepared by folding astrip of material upon itself to provide it with a tin ished edge alongits fold line, the opposite unfinished edges of the welt strip beingsuitably stitched together as along the line H (Figure 3). The welt H isof a length somewhat longer than the overall length the die-cut slit Bin the main body fabric A, and it is so disposed upon the fabric A as tohave its opposite ends project equidistantly beyond the correspondingends of the die-cut slit B. The next step in the operation is to placethe pocket liner M upon the welt with the inner edge of the lining Mcoincident with the unfinished inner edge of the welt strip H, thepocket liner M being so disposed that its main body portion overlies thestrap 15 and that portion of the body fabric A which extends outwardlyfrom said strap. Preferably, the welt strip H is of a width such thatits unfinished inner edge is more or less coincident with the line ofthe die-cut slit B. However, the coincident inner edges of the weltstrip H and of the pocket liner M need not coincide exactly with thediecut slit B, so long as such coincident edges are disposed between theslots 2ti-27 of the base plate 11 of the device 10.

The next step in the operation is to place the pocket liner L upon thefabric A with the inner edge of such pocket liner more or lesscoincident with the line of the die-cut slit B and with its main bodyportion overlying the garmeui fabric A and extending outwardly from thedie-cut slit B in the direction away from the pocket liner M. As in thecase of the pocket liner M, the inner edge of the pocket liner L neednot be disposed exactly coincidcnt with the die-cut slit B, it beingonly necessary that it be disposed between the slots 26-27. However, itis important to note that the inner edges of the welt strip H, thepocket liner M and the pocket liner L should all be exactly parallel tothe line of the die-cut slit B.

Following placement of the welt strip H and the pocket parts M and Lupon the garment fabric so that they respectively assume their relativepositions shown most clearly in Figures 3 and 15, the top plate 13 ofthe device it is swung into its closed position and locked to securelyclamp the several pocket forming parts in their properly assembledrelation.

Thereupon, the device 10, with the several pocket forming parts clampedtherein, is transferred from the table to the sewing machine 35 to carryout the requisite sewing operations. To this end, the clamp is shiftedlaterally across the axis of the reciprocating needle 49 of the sewingmachine so as to position the needle guide 39 (and the stops 43d3 whenthe latter are employed) in registry with one or the other of the slots26-27 in the base plate of the device 11. Assuming that it is the slot26 which is first brought into registry with the needle guide 39, itwill be apparent that upon operation of the sewing machine and movementof the device 10 relatively to the needle axis, a line of stitching willbe obtained which is coextensive in length with the effective icngth ofthe slot 26. This line of stitching is that designated .l in Figures 15and 21 and secures together the main body fabric A, the welt strip H andthe pocket liner M along a line which is closely adjacent to andparallels the die-cut slot B.

Upon completion of this line of stitching I, the device with the workstill clamped therein is laterally shifted so as to present theadjoining slot 27 in the base plate 11 in registry with the needle guide39 (and with the stops 4343, should the same be employed), where uponupon shifting of the clamped work relatively to the reciprocating needle40 of the sewing machine, a second line of stitching is obtained, thisline being that designated P in Figures 15 and 21 to secure the pocketliner L to the fabric A. It will be noted that the line of stitching Pclosely adjoins and is parallel to the die-cut slit B, this line ofstitching P being disposed, however, to one side of the die-cut slit Bopposite that of the welt-securing stitch line I.

It will be apparent that by proper adjustment of the stops 434-3relatively to the needle guide 3'9, the effective length of the stitchlines I and P may be varied as desired. Thus, by increasing the distancebetween each stop 43 and the needle guide 39, the length of travel ofthe device it) relatively to the needle will be decreased, thusshortening the efiective length of the stitch line I and P. Of course,the stops t=3-43 would be adjusted relatively to the needle guide 39 toprovide for a length of stitch line which is coextensive with theoverall length of the die-cut slit B formed in the fabric A.

If desired, the sewing machine may be of the type having a pair ofvertically reciprocating needles so spaced as to simultaneously form thestitch lines I and P. In such case, the two needles of the sewingmachine would respectively project through the slots 26-27 of thedevice, which slots, of course, would be laterally spaced apart incorrespondence with the spacing of the dual needles of the sewingmachine. It will be understood, of course, that the spring pressedmembers 29-21 of the top plate 13 of the device 10 operate toresiliently press together the overlying pocket-forming parts which areto be secured together along the stitch lines I and P and that theneedle 4t! operates through the slots 2329 of the spring pressed members2ti-21, which last mentioned slots are in registry with the base plateslots 2627.

Upon completion of the stitching operations to form the stitch lines Iand P, the clamped Work is then removed from the sewing machine,following which the clamp is opened and the sewed work removedtherefrom. T hereupon the pocket is completed in accordance withconventional procedure as follows. The pocket part M is drawn throughthe slit B and reversely turned, as shown in Figure 16, to present it inoverlying relation to the inner or wrong side of the garment fabric A,at the same time presenting the welt H in proper relation to the weltopening defined by the dotted lines FF and G-G of Figure 22. The pocketpart L is similarly drawn through the slit B to present it in overlyingrelation to the welt H and its depending pocket part M, following whichopposite end portions of the welt and the pocket liner L arerespectively stitched, as at I-I, to the fabric A along the fold linesGG of the reversely turned triangular tabs E-E. Finally, the overlyingpocket liners L and M are marginally secured together by the lines ofstitching N--N and O, the stitch lines NN being preferably coincidentwith the stitching II at opposite ends of the welt H. The pocket thuscompleted is of the general form shown in Figures 16 and 23 and isprovided with a welt H which is inset into the garment fabric A and issecured thereto by the lines of stitching I-I and I, its

upper finished edge K being free of the fabric A to provide an openingaifording access to the pocket formed between the pocket liners L and M.

Figures 24 to 28 inclusive show a modified construction of thecombination clamp and guide unit of the present invention. In thismodified construction, the unit 60 is provided as in the previouslydescribed arrangement with a main base plate 61 to which is hingedlysecured, as by the hinge shaft 62, a top cover plate 63. The bottomsurface of the base plate 61 is longitudinally milled out to provide ashallow undercut 64 of uniform depth and of a uniform width at leastequal to the distance between the outer edges of the needle guide slots65-65. The length of the undercut is substantially greater than that ofthe guide slots 65-65, the undercut being extended equidistantly beyondthe opposite ends of the slots. Preferably, the depth of the undercut 64is about one half the thickness of the base plate 61.

Fitted in the undercut 64 are a pair of fiat insert plates 66-66, eachof the configuration most clearly shown in Figure 25 to provide a widepart 67 having a relatively narrow extension 68. The wide part 67 is ofa width adapting it to fit snugly within the undercut 64, while theextension part 68 is a width equal to the distance between the proximateinner edges of the guide slots 65-65. The plates 66-66 are each of athickness equal to the depth of the undercut 64 in which they are fittedso that the bottom surfaces thereof are disposed flush with that of thebase plate 61 when the parts are assembled as shown in Figures 26 and27.

Suitably secured to or formed upon the upper surface of the narrowextensions of each insert plate 66 are a pair of laterally spacedrectangular blocks 69-69. Preferably, these blocks are secured inposition by screws, but they may be formed as integral parts of theinsert plate. Mounted upon each of the blocks 69-69 is an upwardlypresenting more or less sharply pointed pin '70.

It will be noted that the guide slots 65-65 are each provided at theiropposite ends with widened portions 71-71 and that these widened slotportions are respectively offset inwardly of the slots of which they areparts. It also will be noted that the blocks 69-69 project upwardlythrough the widened portions 71-71 of the needle guide slots and are sorespectively disposed therein that the outer edge of each block 69 iscoincident with the inner edge of the central portion of its associatedguide slot 65. The pin '70 carried by each block 69 is so locatedthereon as to present it in tangential relation to the inner edge of thecentral portion of its associated guide slot 65.

The widened end slots '71-'71 are approximately twice the length of theblocks 69-69 disposed therein, in consequence of which the latter may beshifted longitudinally in the end slots ill-71 to vary the position ofthe pins '70-'70 lengthwise of said slots. Of course, to effect suchchange in position of pins 70-70 as from their positions shown inFigures 24 to 27 into their positions shown in Figure 28, the insertplates 66-66 are positionally adjusted lengthwise of their accommodatingundercut 64.

In order to permit positional adjustment of the insert plates 66-66relatively to the base plate 61, the latter is longitudinally slotted inthe undercut portions thereof which extend beyond the opposite ends ofthe guide slots 65-65, as at '72-'72, and in the central portion of saidundercut, as at 73. These slots 72-72-73 are all in longitudinalalinement and respectively permit the projection therethrough of screws74-74 threaded into the outer end portions of the underlying insertplates 66-66 and of screws '75-'75 similarly threaded into the inner endportions of said insert plates. These screws, when tightened, secure theinsert plates in any desired adjusted position within the limits ofpermissible movement of the pin-carrying blocks 69-69 lengthwise oftheir accommodating slots 71-71.

As most clearly appears in Figure 24, the spring-pressed needle-guidemembers 76-76 of the top plate 63 are respectively notched out, as at77-77, in correspondence with the notched out portions 71-71 of theneedle guide slots in the base member 61, so that when the top coverplate is clamped in its closed positions the pins 70-70 may upwardlyproject freely through the slots of the spring-pressed guide members76'-76 of said top plate.

It will be apparent that in use of the modified construction of thecombined clamp and guide just described, the necessity for employing aspecial table with a fence and retractable pin-carrying-insert, such asis shown in Figures 1 and 2, is completely dispensed with. The modifieddevice is employed in the same manner as that hereinbefore described, itbeing necessary only to positionally adjust the pins 70-70 lengthwise ofthe guide slots 65-65 prior to clamping the work in the unit so that thefour pins are spaced in correspondence with the relative spacing of theterminals of the divergent portions C-C of the die-cut slit of the bodyfabric A. It will be noted that the pins 70-70 are all disposed inwardlyof the guide slots 65-65 and so interpose no interference to freemovement of the clamped work relatively to the needle along the fulllengths of the stitch lines I and P (see Figure 21). Also, it will beapparent that the pins 70-70 pierce the welt H and the pocket linerparts L and M when the same are superposed upon the main fabric A ashereinbefore described and thus securely maintain the several parts intheir proper assembled relation not only wihle the same are beingclamped together between the base plate 61 and the top cover plate 63,but also after they have been clamped and are being stitched together bythe sewing machine operation.

While in the device as illustrated, the needle guide slots in the basemember extend rectilinearly along parallel lines coincident with thoseof the stitch lines I and P (Figure 21), it will be understood that saidguide slots (and their registering slots in the spring-pressed members20-21 of the top plate) may be of any desired curvilinear form toproduce stitch lines (such as I and P) which are of correspondingcurvilinear form. It will be understood, also, that the lateral spacingof the slots traversed by the sewing machine needle may be varied asdesired depending upon variation in width of the welt H incorporatedinto the pocket, and that in certain instances it may be desired toemploy only one set of vertically spaced registering slots to betraversed by the sewing machine needle. Further, the spring-pressedslotted members 20-21, which respectively function to exertsubstantially equal clamping pressure upon the material superimposedupon the fabric A and located to either side of its die-cut slit B, maybe dispensed with in certain instances, as where the material to beclamped is of uniform thickness on opposite sides of the die-cut slit B.Indeed, it is contemplated that in certain cases the top plate may belongitudinally split along a line coincident with the line of placementof the die-cut slit of the fabric A upon the slotted base member tothereby provide a pair of upper clamping members which respectivelycoact with the base plate to separately clamp in secured position thematerial disposed to either side of the die-cut slit B.

It will be understood, of course, that the present invention issusceptible to various other changes and modifications which may be madefrom time to time without departing from the general principles or realspirit of the invention, and it is accordingly intended to claim thesame broadly, as well as specifically, as indicated in the appendedclaims.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

l. A method of producing a garment pocket having a welted trim whichconsists in slitting a main body fabric to produce a longitudinal slittherein terminating at its opposite extremities in divergent cuts, inthen placing upon said slitted fabric a welt-forming part for the pockethaving an unfinished longitudinally extending inner edge and a finishedlongitudinally extendnig outer edge with the unfinished innerlongitudinal edge thereof substantially conicident with saidlongitudinal slit, in thereafter placing a pair of pocket liners uponsaid main body fabric respectvely on opposite sides of said longitudinalslit with their proximate inner ends substantially coincident with saidlongitudinal slit, the several garment parts aforesaid being unattachedto one another and one of said pocket liners being additionally placedover said Welt part, in next simultaneously clamping all of said garmentparts together in their superposed relation, and in finally passing theclamped work through the needle head of a sewing machine to sew all ofsaid superposed pocket parts together through the clamping means alongcontinuous lines respectively disposed to either side of saidlongitudinal slit for a distance along each of said continuous lineswhich is coextensive with the overall length of said longitudinal slit.

2. A method of producing a. garment pocket having a welted trim whichconsists in slitting a main body fabric to produce a longitudinal slittherein terminating at its opposite extremities in divergent cuts, inthen placing upon said slitted fabric a welt-forming part for the pocketslit, in thereafter placing a pair of pocket-forming parts fiatwise oversaid main body fabric respectively on opposite sides of saidlongitudinal slit with the proximate inner ends of said pocket-formingparts in substantial coincidence with said longitudinal slit, theseveral garment parts being unattached to one another and one of saidpocket forming parts being additionally placed over said Welt part, innext simultaneously temporarily securing together all of said garmentparts in their assembled relation as aforesaid, and finally permanentlystitching the same together along parallel lines spaced equidistantly toeither side of said longitudinal slit, each of said stitch linesextending continuously along one side of said slit to and between theends of the dvergent cuts located on the same side of said slit.

References (Jited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS1,403,094 Murchinson Jan. 10, 1922 2,355,023 Wiren Aug. 1, 19442,388,516 Altobelli Nov. 6, 1945 2,788,755 Nichols Apr. 16, 1957 FOREIGNPATENTS 291,268 Great Britain a- May 31, 1928 OTHER REFERENCES TheEncyclopedia of Modern Sewing (Blondin), published by Wm. H. Wise & Co.(New York), 1949, (page 213 relied on).

